Axes in New France: Part 111 Casse-têtes (French Tomahawks)

https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.109/tnx.0f5.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Axes-in-New-France-Part-3-Casse-t%C3%AAtes-French-Tomahawks.pdf

Axes in New France: Part 11 French Colonial-made Axes

https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.109/tnx.0f5.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Axes-in-New-France-Part-2-French-Colonial-made-Axes.pdf

Indian Trade Goods 1759.

Fifteen hundred ells of limbourg, half blue and half red
Six hundred ells of sempitemc
Fifty plumes of different colors
Fifty pairs of copper shoe-buckles
Twenty three-point blankets
Six hundred two-and-a-half-point blankets
Two hundred two-and-a-half-point Bazas blankets
Eight hundred trade shirts for men, as long in front as in the back
Three hundred fifty thirty-caliber trade guns·
Six thousand five hundred pounds of powder
Two hundred fifty ells of St. Jean cloth
Ten thousand gun flints
[fol. 328v] One thousand woodcutters’ knives
Twelve hundred clasp or Flatin knives with antler handles and dogs’ heads
Five hundred trade belts
Two thousand strike-a-lights
Five hundred seventy-six wooden combs
Four thousand pounds of flat iron for hatchets. pickaxes, and tomahawks
Four hundred pairs of ordinary scissors
Eighty pounds of iron wire of different thicknesses
Eighty pounds of brass wire which has not been annealed and in small rolls
Twenty-five dozen pewter,buttons
One hundred hats decorated with three-inch imitation silver braid
One hundred ordinary plain hats
Two thousand worms
Fifty lengths of scarlet woolen ribbon
Three thousand ells of gold and imitation silver lribbon}, half of it in braid
Fifty dozen buttons, gold and imitation silver, for suits. likewise half and half
Eighty pounds of vermilion, in pure powder. in small bags of one pound
Eighty pounds of red lead
Three hundred number 6 mirrors framed in leather
[fol. 329] One hundred fifty brass cauldrons, large and medium, no small, larger at the top than at the bottom
Fifty ells of scarlet cloth’
One hundred ells of well-chosen scarlet woolen cloth; that which has been sent previously being only a double linen serge
Fifty ells of red camelot
Five complete sets of fine gold buttons
Five of the same in silver
Two hundred ells of St. Jean cloth for lining suits and coats

Extraordinary Presents

Eight hundred ells of blue and red limbourg, half and half
Forty plumes of different colors
Two hundred two-and-a-half-point blankets
Six men’s trade shirts
One hundred fifty trade guns
Four thousand five hundred pounds of powder
Ten gross of woodcutters’ knives
Ten gross of wooden combs
Ten thousand gun flints
Twenty-four hats decorated with imitation silver braid
Twenty-four of the same, plain ‘
[fol. 329v] Three thousand worms
Fifty lengths of scarlet woolen ribbon
Three thousand strike-a-lights
Fifty trade belts
Four hundred number 6 mirrors framed in leather
Six hundred cocks for trade guns 10 •
Six hundred hammers for the same
Six hundred tumblers
Six hundred sear-springs, forged in one piece
Six hundred sears
Eight hundred large screws
Eight hundred cock screws
Twenty-four packets of assorted German files
Thirty-six half-round bastard files
Twenty-four of the same, bastard, flat
Twenty-four of the same, assorted fine
Twenty-four of the same, rat-tailed
Twenty-four of the same, rasps
Forty hundredweight of flat iron for hatchets, pickaxes, and tomahawks

For the Trade with the Choctaw Indians

Five thousand ells of limbourg, blue and red, half and half
[fol. 330] Fifteen hundred blankets of two and a half points
Six hundred three-point blankets
Twelve hundred two-and-a-half-point Bazas blankets
Two thousand six hundred men’s trade shirts, as long in the front as in the back
Four hundred women’s shirts
Five hundred cravats
Two hundred trade guns, thirty caliber
Six thousand pounds of powder
Three hundred lengths of scarlet woolen ribbon
One hundred fifty pounds of pure vermilion
Three hundred fifty pounds of red lead
Three hundred pounds of assorted round beads, particularly sky blue
Thirty gross of woodcutters’ knives
Ten thousand gun flints
Ten gross of trade scissors
Twenty gross of worms
Twenty gross of awls
Twenty gross of strike-a-lights
Six hundred number 6 mirrors {?mounted] in leather
Twenty-five gross of combs
Four hundred ells of blue and red Mazamet 12
{fol. 33ov] Eight hundred ells of sempiterne, blue, red, and plum
Six thousand sewing needles
Eight. thousand pounds of flat iron for hatchets, pickaxes, and tomahawks
Fifty pounds of assorted Rennes thread
One hundred fifty assorted brass cauldrons, large and medium, no small

For the Trade with the Alabama, Attacapa, Kickapoo, Mascouten, and Shawnee Indians

Two thousand ells of red and blue limbourg
Fifteen hundred two-and-a~half-point blankets
Four hundred three-point blankets
Six hundred two-and-a-half-point Bazas blankets
Two thousand five hundred men’s trade shirts
Five hundred women’s shirts
Four hundred trade guns, thirty caliber
Ten thousand pounds of powder
Four hundred lengths of scarlet woolen ribbon
One hundred fifty pounds of vermilion in small bags of one pound
One hundred fifty pounds of red lead
Thirty gross of woodcutters’ knives
[fo1. 33 x 1 Thirty gross of awls
Forty gross of worms
Six gross of wooden combs
Six thousand pounds of flat iron for hatchets, pickaxes, and tomahawks
Two hundred ells of blue and red Mazamet
Ten thousand gun flints
Four thousand sewing needles
Fifty pounds of assorted Rennes thread
Six gross of trade scissors
Fifteen hundred gross of clasp or Flatin knives with antler handles and dogs' heads
Four hundred trade belts
Three hundred cravats
Three hundred sixty number 6 mirrors {?mounted) in leather
Fifty brass cauldrons, large and medium, no s,mall

For the Projected Trade with the Cherokee Indians

Ten thousand ells of limbourg, half red and half blue
Three thousand two-and-a-half-point blankets
Twelve hundred three-point blankets
Ten thousand four hundred Bazas blankets
[fo1. 33 1 v] Five thousand two hundred men’s trade shirts, as long in back as in front
Eight hundred women’s shirts
A thousand cravats
Four hundred trade guns, thirty caliber
Twelve thousand pounds of powder for war
Six hundred lengths of scarlet woolen ribbon
Three hundred pounds of pure vermilion
Three hundred pounds of red lead
Six hundred pounds of assorted round beads
Sixty gross of woodcutters’ knives
Twenty thousand gun flints
Twenty gross of trade guns
Forty gross of worms
Forty gross of awls
Forty gross of strike-a-lights
Two hundred number 6 mirrors {?mounted} in leather
Fifty gross of combs
Eight hundred ells ofbiue and red Mazamet
Eight thousand pounds of fiat iron for hatchets. pickaxes, and tomahawks
Eight thousand pounds ditto for the same
Twelve thousand sewing needles
[fol. 332] One hundred pounds of assorted Rennes thread
Three hundred brass cauldrons, large and medium, no small

“Statement of arms, munition, food supplies and merchandise to be sent from France to Louisiana for the needs of the colony on the funds for the year 1759.”

Source: Rowland, Dunbar, A G. Sanders, and Patricia K. Galloway. Mississippi Provincial Archives: French Dominion. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 1984. Print. DOCUMENT 57, pp.228-232

ANNUAL PRESENTS THAT ARE GIVEN TO THE INDIANS

Histoire du Québec 8 - Les Habitants

French Clothing in the New World Part Six.

o    (a) Justaucorps and Vest

o    - "a new suit [i.e. justaucorps] and a vest of Pinchina (1728, master suit tailor) [71]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and vest of brown cloth one third used, with matching buttons (1742, clerk of the Superior Council ) [72]
- "a suit ii.e. j.l ustaucorps] and vest of cinnamon plush...15# (1744, ship captain) [73]
- "a suit (i.e. justaucorps] with vest of mouse gray cloth three quarters used. (1752) [74]

o    (b) Justaucorps and Breeches

o    - "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and breeches of drap d'Elbeuf, half used, maroon coloured ...25#...(1736) [75]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of black cloth, ` very worn (1740, engineer) [76]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of gray cloth lined with green taffeta ...10#...(1744, ship captain) [77]

o    (c) Justaucorps Alone

o    - "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of écarlate, three quarters used, with copper buttons (1740, engineer) [78]
- "another suit [i.e. justaucorps] of gray cloth, two thirds used (1742, clerk of the Superior Council) [79]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of rough brown cloth, half used... #15 (1756) [80]
- "a brown suit [i.e. j,ustaucorps] with blue lining (1756) [81]

o    5. VEST

o    Unlike the suit which only rich or distinguished men wore regularly, vests and breeches were part of every wardrobe from the most luxurious to the most humble. (In the latter case a wardrobe would be merely a simple cupboard containing a few old clothes). Vest and breeches could make an ensemble, particularly when made of the same material (See Table No. 5 and No. 6) but most often, they were cited separately in lists of clothing with nothing to suggest they were part of a single outfit.

o    It is difficult to establish norms in judging average daily wear. These garments were not made to measure by tailors and unfortunately only the techniques of these artisans have been noted and conserved. Some of these garments were probably made at home. Others, less individual, were sold from large batches: sixty pairs of breeches and ten vests

o   

---

o    TABLE N0. 5: FABRICS AND COLOURS OF VESTS

PERIOD	COTTON	cotton	WOOL	wool	SILK	silk	OTHER	other	COLOUR
1713 to 1745	16 dimity 2 striped dimity	x x	4 mazamet 2 pinching 1 camlet 1 frise 1 mite	x x + - -	1 plush 1 velvet 1 watered silk 1 checked silk	v v - -	3 drap 3 gros drap 1 Elbeuf cloth 5 étoffe 3 toile 1 toile rousse 2 skin (leather) 1 écarlate 1 grenat	+ + + - + + - -	5 brown 3 black 2 margoon 2 gray 1 blue 1 white
TOTAL	18		9		4		20		-
1748 to 1758	12 dimity 1 striped dimity 1 brocaded dimity 1 flowered dimity 2 striped cotton 1 flowered cotton 1 cotton 1 toile de coton 1 Siamese cotton	x x x x - - - + +	9 ratine 3 camlet 2 drugget 2 plush 1 cut plush 1 serge 1 flowered serge 1 mazamet 1 Cadiz 1 barracan	x - x v v x x x x -	1 silk drugget 1 silk 1 plush 3 velvet 2 cut velvet	x or + - v v v	13 drap 5 fluted drap 1 gros drap 6 étoffe 1 grosse étoffe 4 "very strong diablement fort" 2 toile 2 écarlate 1 écarlatine	+ + + - - - + - -	12 blue 10 red 7 brown 6 white 5 gray 4 black 1 cinnamon 1 maroon
TOTAL	21		22		8		35		-
GRAND TOTAL	39		31		12		55		-

o                  

o    DOCUMENTATION:

o    1713-1745: 51 fabrics and 14 colours of vests are specified.

o    1748-1758: 86 fabrics and 46 colours of vests are specified. )

o    1713-1758: 137 fabrics and 60 colours of vests are specified.

o    ABBREVIATIONS:

o    +: fabric without twill weave (perpendicular pattern)

o    x: twill woven fabric (diagonal pattern)

o    v: velvet-textured fabric

o    -: weaving technique is unknown

o   

---

o    TABLE NO. 6: FABRICS AND COLOURS OF BREECHES

PERIOD	COTTON	cotton	WOOL	wool	SILK	silk	OTHER	other	COLOUR
1713 to 1745	4 dimity 3 striped cotton	x -	5 mazamet 4 camlet 3 pinchina 3 frieze (ratine)	x + x x	6 plush 3 velvet 1 silk drugget 1 checked silk	v v + -	13 toile 3 sailcloth 1 toile rousse 7 drap 2 gros drap 6 skin (leather) 1 mooseskin 3 moresque 3 écarlatine 2 étoffe 2 étoffe commune 2 short napped cloth 2 tick -1 "cordeillac"	+ + + + + - - - - + + -	11 brown 4 black 4 red 3 blue 2 maroon 1 white 1 gray 1 beige
TOTAL	7		15		11		48		-
1748 to 1758	4 striped cotton 2 cotton 4 striped Siamese 3 toile de coton	- - + +	5 frieze (ratine) 2 beaver 1 camlet 1 calamance 1 brocaded wool 1 woollen velvet	x + + - - v	36 plush 11 velvet 1 brocaded velvet 1 silk drugget	v v v +	35 sailcloth 3 toile 1 toile de mer 1 striped toile 23 drap 2 fluted drap 7 skin [leather] 5 mooseskin 4 tick 3 "very strong diablement fort" 3 beggars velvet 2 "Ginga" 2 short-napped cloth 2 étoffe 1 étoffe ciselé 1 etamine 1 grisette	+ + + + + + + - - - + - - - +	18 red 16 blue 8 brown 6 gray 4 black 3 white 2 green 2 gray-white
TOTAL	13		11		49		96		-
GRAND TOTAL	20		26		60		144		-

o    The Louisbourg Institute of / L' Institut de Louisbourg de Cape Breton University ~ © 1995-present ~ Louisbourg.info@pc.gc.ca 
  A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
  Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
Report/Rapport © Parks Canada / Parcs Canada --- Report Assembly/Rapport de l'assemblée © Krause House Info-Research Solutions

o    CIVIL COSTUME AT LOUISBOURG: 1713 - 1758
MEN'S COSTUME

o    BY

o    MONIQUE LA GRENADE

French Clothing in the New World Part Five.

VEST	D: 1. "Garment worn under the justaucorps or the suit. It has sleeves, basques and pockets, and is buttoned, but it reaches only to the knees. (Diderot., "Vests"). 2. Garment with four flaps (pans), which reaches to the knees. (Larousse XX siècle, "Vests"). E: Polonaise (Lb., see polonaise, E.1)
WAISTCOAT	D: 1. Short sleeveless garment worn under a vest, jaquette ... etc. A sort of camisole of wool or cotton, which was worn next to the skin or over a shirt. Thegilet is a vest without basques, and originally without pockets. (Larousse, XX siècle, "gilet"). 2. see camisole, D.2 E: camisole

o    DOCUMENTATION:

o    This information has been collected from Diderot's Encyclépédie, the Dictionnaire Larousse de XX siécle. The Cut Of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh (London 1964, "Other Types of Garments", p. 89, "French Terms used with the English Equivalent", p. 90), XV111E Siècle: Institutions, Usages et Costumes by Paul Lacroix (Paris, 1885, po 493), and the Louisbourg Archives.

o    We have studied here only the garments which are mentioned in the Louisbourg documents.

o    The origin of each detail is given in parentheses.

o    In order to avoid repetitions each time a term appears, we have indicated cross references the first time a term appears.

o   

---

o    (a) Justaucorps

o    The ,justaucorps, the 'jacket' of the 18th century suit, hung to the knees. It could be closed along a row of buttons at the front. It had no collar. Each side had large box pleats called "basques" and the back was open from the waist. The sleeves had cuffs, called "buttes de la manche". The pockets had flaps with button-holes matching the buttons sewn on the coat.

o    After making his measurements and tracing the contours onto the material, the tailor cut out the pieces: two front pieces, two for the back, two pieces for each sleeve, two sleeve cuffs and two pocket flaps were the main parts of the garment.

o    The tailor assembled the two pieces of the back by a seam from neck to waist, in the center of the back. The tails were left divided. Then the front pieces were prepared. Each side was more rigid near the center, since the pieces were reinforced by a strip of buckram (bougran) on the inside of each piece. Button-holes were cut down the left side of the front. Openings for the pockets were already cut and the pockets were attached from the inside, though the flaps were sewn to the outside of the fabric.

o    Before joining front to back, the tailor sewed in a precisely fitted lining. The side seams ran from the armpit towards the waist, where they stopped. Then the garment was sewed above the shoulders. The collar was finished with a narrow strip of fabric attached to the outside and folded over the hem.

o    Below the waist, the front and back had a surplus of material on each side. This was pleated. The pleats, held up by points of stitching, formed the pleats known as "basques".

o    The sleeves remained to be assembled and attached. Two seams were made to assemble the pieces which formed the upper and under sides of the sleeves. Cuffs were done in the same way and attached to the sleeves. Each cuff was trimmed with five buttons and button-holes. The lining, separately assembled, was sewn to the sleeve. That done, the sleeve was sewn to the body.

o    (b) Vest

o    The vest, which used the same basic model as the justaucorps, was similar in assembly, though it was simpler. It was not as long and had neither pleats at the sides nor cuffs on the sleeves. The sleeves were slit a few inches up the wrist; a button-hole was made on one side of the cut and a button placed on the other.

o    (c) Breeches

o    Breeches reached to just below the knee where they ended with a garter. They closed at the front by either a brayette, a simple buttoned vertical opening in the center, or by a pont or bavaroise, a larger opening which buttoned at each side of the front.

o    Four pieces were cut to make breeches. Two formed the front and two the back. The tailor used the same material to line the tops of the pockets and the slits at the bottom, which were at the sides and rose to the knee. He sewed five buttons and button-holes around these openings. The front piece and the back piece were then joined down the sides to the opening, and along the insides of the thighs. The crotch-piece seam (la couture de l'entre-jambe) between the two back pieces stopped three pouces from the waist. The one at the front stopped at the brayette.

o    A waistband with several pleats took up the surplus material. It could be adjusted at the center of the back with a buckle and closed at the front with two buttons and button-holes.

o    The lining, made of dressed sheepskin ("peau de mouton chamoisée"), fustian, or toile, was made separately and added to the breeches after pockets had been sewn inside. Finally, the garters were sewn into the bottom of each leg. They were narrow bands of the same material, held together by a buckle.

o    3. MATCHED SUITS

o    The three pieces which made up the suit were all common in men's wardrobes at Louisbourg. It was less common to find them as an ensemble, made of the same material. When that was the case (See Table No. 4) the suit often would be made of plain materials woven without twill ("drags: tissu simple, sans croisure") of different qualities, or other allied materials such as camlet (camelot). There were also velvet-like fabrics such as plush. Colours were usually sombre: blue, black or different shades of gray or brown.

o    Merchants or merchant-brokers, [61a] ship's carpenters., [62] engineer., [63] bailiff of the Superior Council: [64] these were the occupations of those who wore suits. Some exceptions can be found, such as the master baker [65] and the lighthouse-keeper [66] who had suits, but theirs were of inferior quality, made of "rough brown cloth" or "common material".

o    A few details show the refinement attainable by the wealthy. Such is the case for a suit for which material was ordered in France in 1729[67] It was made of "drap d'Elbeuf or something more beautiful, iron gray in colour, with fine red lining, and with all the trimming matched".

o   

---

o    TABLE N0. 4: FABRICS AND COLOURS OF SUITS

PERIOD	FABRIC	COLOUR
1713 to 1745	8 cloth (drap):          3 unspecified type                   1 d'Elbeuf                   1 d'Abbeville                   1 "gros drap"                   2 "canelle" 3 material (étoffe):  1 unspecified type                                   2 common stuff                                   3 plush                                   1 camlet on silk                                  1 short nap maroccan (ras de maroc)	3 brown - 2 iron gray - 1 black - - - - -
1748 to 1758	9 cloth:  6 unspecified type  2 d'Elbeuf  1 new and fine 3 camlet:  1 unspecified  2 on silk 1 friezed Cadiz cloth 1 short-napped	2 gray-white - 2 gray 1 brown 1 coffee-coloured 3 blue 3 black

o    DOCUMENTATION:

o     

o    1713-1745: 16 fabrics and 6 colours specified

o    1748-1758: 14 fabrics and 12 colours specified

o    1713-1758:30 fabrics and 18 coleurs specified

o   

---

o    Ornamentation also contributed to the quality of a suit. Buttons could be flat, cloth-covered or simply of an ordinary metal-like copper or tin. But sometimes gold or silver buttons were chosen, or the suit was decorated with braids, fringes or variously embroidered ribbons. Louisbourg inventory of 1750 listed a "blue camlet suit with buttons of gold thread and with a white taffeta lining, a blue vest with a gold braid and a white silk lining" and a pair of blue breeches. [68] It belonged to a boat captain and was worth 120 livres, though at the time it was "somewhat used'". The high price itself suggests why this sort of suit was a rare thing in Louisbourg.

o    Other suits were so splendid as to make them a true luxury item. "The most beautiful ... are the embroidered suits, of silk, with golden or silver flowers, or of golden cloth, etc." [69] These were almost non-existant at Louisbourg, except in exceptional cases. The governor, whose situation was clearly unique, owned one of these suits, valued at 333 livres in 1744. [70] The three pieces were not of the same material, but were designed to be matched: the coat was "cinnamon, braided with gold, lined with crimson silk" and the vest was "Naples cloth (gros de Naple) the colour of fire, also gold braided and lined with white silk ...and breeches of the same material".

o    4. VARIOUS TYPES OF COMBINATIONS

o    Up to this point, we have considered suits as designed by the tailor in their most classical form. Most often these were three pieces of the same material. We might call "street clothes" (habits de ville) those that were of sombre colour, while others, much more rare and luxurious, were reserved for more sophisticated occasions.

o    It is wrong, however, to assume that all those wearing suits looked the same. Although style was more conformist at that time than in the 20th century, one was allowed to make variations within certain limits. Except for a few details, the model remained the same, but one could combine different materials, colours or garments. Several examples will show this variety. Rather than giving the complete list, which would mean repetition and a confused picture, or on the other hand giving only a general outline, we have chosen to use a selection of valuable examples. Two criteria have guided the choices: we have used citations which both serve as representatives of the whole and offer precise details. They are listed by the different possible combinations and may be a useful guide for costume reproduction.

o    The Louisbourg Institute of / L' Institut de Louisbourg de Cape Breton University ~ © 1995-present ~ Louisbourg.info@pc.gc.ca 
  A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
  Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
Report/Rapport © Parks Canada / Parcs Canada --- Report Assembly/Rapport de l'assemblée © Krause House Info-Research Solutions

o    CIVIL COSTUME AT LOUISBOURG: 1713 - 1758
MEN'S COSTUME

o    BY

o    MONIQUE LA GRENADE