o 1. BLANCHET
o The word blanchet, which originally
referred to a white woollen cloth, was applied subsequently to a sleeved camisole (camisole
à manches). [109] The latter sense was the one retained at Louisbourg where
it was apparently worn over a shirt. It took the place of the vest and could be
worn with breeches, as is suggested by the expression "four changes
of Blanchets and Breeches"; [110] the fact
that there were matched suits, such as a blanchet and breeches
of brown Mazamet (Mazamet brun) confirms in this hypothesis. [111] We
cannot consider a blanchet simply as a type of vest (veste)
or waistcoat (gilet) since there are records of a blanchet "and
vest" [112] or "and gilet". [113] They were often
made of wool or simple fabric (étoffe), but sometimes of cotton, and the
colour was not always white. (See Table No. 7)
o This garment was common among fishermen, [114 ]and
also found in the possessions of a ship's carpenter. [115] It was never found
in the inventories of richer men, except those of merchants. Two of them had
five [116] and nine [117] blanchets respectively. These
quantities indicate that they were probably articles for sale. Consequently
their usage must have been fairly widespread.
o
o
TABLE N0. 7:
FABRICS AND COLOURS OF BLANCHETS
|
PERIOD
|
COTTON
|
WOOL
|
SILK
|
OTHER
|
COLOUR
|
|
1713
to 1758 |
1 dimity
|
2 mazamet
1 thick flannel (molleton) |
-
|
3 étoffe
1 grosse étoffe 1 tick 1 "cordeillac" |
2 white
2 brown 1 cinnamon 1 blue |
|
TOTAL
|
1
|
3
|
-
|
6
|
-
|
o
DOCUMENTATION:
1713-1758:
o
o
46 references
to blanchets with: 10 specifying fabric
o
6
specifying colour
o
Most of the
specifications are prior to 1745, in such a way that a chronological
cross-section cannot be made.
o
o 2. BOUGRINE
o Although we have not traced the contemporary
definition of the term bougrine, this garment was used from the
middle of the 18th century. It appeared only once in our research, in a list of
"Supplies furnished to the crew" (Fournitures faites à l'équipage).[118]
In this context, it must refer to a seaman's garment, possibly a capot or
cloak.
o 3. CAPE
o The wearing of capes was not popular among the men of
Louisbourg, for of all the inventories examined, only one referred to capes.
[119] It included two, one of them "an old worn out cape". Could this
actually refer to a capot? That is plausible, because the same
individual also had a vest and breeches of leather as well as a casaque,
which were, like the capot, garments for fishermen.
o 4. CAPOT
o The capot "is a garment in the
form of a hooded robe, which sailors put over their ordinary wear to protect
them from the weather". [120] All information gathered, about capots at
Louisbourg confirms this definition. Except for a merchant's brown camlet capot,
[121] they all belonged to fishermen, [122] a beach master, [123] and a
schooner captain. [124] In the last case, the garment was specified as a
shipboard capot (capot de bord). That of the beach
master was a capot provençal. This phrase is repeated in two other
instances, [125] but there is no detail as to its definition. Other than the
merchant's capot, they were all made of "moresque" (also
written mareique; moreique; Marecque or maraye),
a fabric about which we have no information.
o 5. CLOAK
o The cloak (la casague) was not by definition a
garment worn only by fishermen. It was "a type of long overcoat worn over
other clothing".[126] However its use at Louisbourg was closely related to
the fishing industry. "
o Moresque" which generally was used for
making capots also went into "casaquin"[127] which
suggests the two garments were related. Nevertheless the casaque was
a special type, for it was always made of leather. It was undoubtedly popular
with seamen for its waterproof quality. [128] It is noteable that two cloaks
for a "fisherman by profession" [129] were described as for
fishermen. A merchant had six goat skin casaques "for fishing". [130]
Finally, it is interesting to note the relationship between breeches of leather
[131] and toile [132] and cloaks. The fact that these garments
are mentioned together provides some confirmation that the former were
fishermen's breeches.
o 6. WAISTCOAT
o The waistcoat (gilet) had neither tails nor
pockets and was not lined. It was distinguished from a vest, as in references
to "a vest and a waistcoat", [133] but the difference may have been
small for there is mention of "a waistcoat or vest of blue fabric".
[134] There were gilets with [135] and without sleeves.
[136] Several were made of wool, and others, simply referred to as
"fabric" (étoffe) were probably of the same material. (See
Table No. 8) "Needleworked" [137] may mean that the waistcoats were
knitted, but most, tailored from woven fabrics, were sewn.
o There is no doubt that this garment was worn by
sailors, for once again the owners included fishermen, [138] ship captains,
[139] ship's
o
o
TABLE N0. 8:
FABRICS AND COLOURS OF WAISTCOATS (GILETS)
|
PERIOD
|
COTTON
|
WOOL
|
SILK
|
OTHER
|
COLOUR
|
|
1713
to 1745 |
3 dimity
3 cotton 1 striped cotton |
11 mitte
3 thick flannel (molleton) 2 mazamet 1 flannel 1 frieze (frise) 1 brocaded wool |
-
|
11 étoffe
2 petite étoffe |
12 white
2 red 1 gray |
|
TOTAL
|
7
|
19
|
0
|
13
|
-
|
|
1748
to 1758 |
1 Indian cloth
|
3 wool
2 needleworked wool 2 thick flannel (molleton) 2 frieze (ratine) |
-
|
5 étoffe
3 grosse étoffe 2 dourgne |
2 white
2 blue 2 red |
|
TOTAL
|
1
|
9
|
0
|
10
|
-
|
|
GRAND TOTAL
|
8
|
28
|
0
|
23
|
-
|
o
The Louisbourg Institute of / L' Institut de
Louisbourg de Cape Breton University ~ © 1995-present ~ Louisbourg.info@pc.gc.ca
A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
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A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
Report/Rapport © Parks Canada / Parcs Canada --- Report Assembly/Rapport de l'assemblée © Krause House Info-Research Solutions
o
CIVIL COSTUME AT LOUISBOURG: 1713 - 1758
MEN'S COSTUME
MEN'S COSTUME
o
BY
o
MONIQUE LA GRENADE
