A LIVING HISTORY BLOG.

18TH CENTURY LIVING HISTORY IN AUSTRALIA.
Showing posts with label cutting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cutting. Show all posts

Saturday, 30 November 2019

The Half-Axe.


I purchased my first hand forged tomahawk many years ago from a Blacksmith in Victoria. I realised after a while that the head on this tomahawk was simply too large for my needs, so I made a longer helve & turned it into a half-axe. I do not want to have to carry a saw, I do all my journeying on foot these days & carrying a saw is simply not practical. But when I have heavier cutting to do the half-axe is just the thing I need.
This image shows the half-axe secured under the blanket roll ties.




Saturday, 30 August 2014

Cork stopper making & Sizing.



Cork bottle stoppers in the 18th century were all made by hand.
1712 Bottle Corks.

1880 Bottle Corks.

Quercus suber (Cork Oak) bark, Portugal.

Cork Cutters.
Cork Cutter.
Cork Cutter.
A Cooper's Cork Bung Punch.



Fig. one. & 2 Workers busy making jams.
3 Merchant that matches the caps.
4 The way to round off the cap.
5 Manner of cutting the tip of the cap.
Established 6. A, A, A, A, the edges of the bench on which the support for the plug cut by the ends, as seen Fig. 5.
7 Bannette to receive indiscriminately all kinds of plugs coming out of the hand of the worker.
8 Bannette to match.
9 Pierre sharpen knives.
10 Knives.


Cork Presses for the sizing of corks.

However, we need to fast-forward to around 1660, when a French Benedictine monk by the name of Dom PĂ©rignon first used cork for the purpose for which its name has become indelibly linked – as 
a stopper for wine bottles. According to legend, this monk was responsible for making sparkling wine at the Abbey of Sainte-Vannes in the Champagne region of northern France, and was having trouble keeping in the wooden plugs soaked in olive oil that were the stopper of choice at the time. He noticed that compressed cork returns to its original shape when pressure is released, making it ideal for wine bottles.

The practice boomed among the winemakers of Europe, and there’s evidence of cork stoppers being widely used in Portugal during the mid-18th century, when cylindrical bottles with

a uniform neck were first used for port wine in Oporto. Strict laws governing cork production have been in place 
in Portugal for more than 200 years. Cultivation is banned uphill from 
water courses, for instance. But more importantly, bark must only be harvested from mature, healthy trees and a gap 
of at least nine years must separate harvests from an individual tree.  http://www.geographical.co.uk/Magazine/Staying_power_-_Apr_13.html
 The first references to cork date back to 3000 BC in China, where it was used in fishing tackle. The Egyptians, Babylonians, Phoenicians and Persians were also familiar with the properties of cork, but it was not until man started to produce wine that it appeared as the most suitable material for closing the containers used to preserve it.
“You should put it into round bottles with narrow mouths, and then stopping them close with corks, set them in a cold cellar up to the waist in sand, and be sure that the corks be fast tied in with strong pack thread, for fear of rising out and taking vent, which is the utter spoil of the ale.”
The main products were stoppers for jars and bottles. There seems to have been a high level of diversity in the size and quality available. The household accounts of Petworth House (a stately home in Sussex) over a period of fifty years from 1755 show payment for quart, pint, best long, best long pint, best white, short long and fruit corks. These were all acquired from a firm of London corkcutters. They were supplied in canvas bags and paid for by the gross (or the dozen in the case of fruit corks.) A writer in the Gentleman’s Magazine for 1736 complained that on trying to buy a gross of best corks, he was offered some that were “indifferent such as I would not have bottled up water gruel with.” On being challenged, the corkcutter returned “you didst not ask for good corks before” and brought out some fit for use. “Beyond these he had his very good corks, his fine corks, his superfine… seven degrees in all.”













Saturday, 7 July 2012

Another Guest Speaker. Listen Up.

This is probably a little off topic, because battening is as far as I can tell a modern......what? It is not a skill or a need. It is just a method thought up to add to the things that bushcrafters do. But I know that many of this blog's followers do so through their interest in bush skills & survival.
My guest speaker this time is also known to me. Vigo has a lot of experience living under harsh conditions in a variety of countries and knows of which he speaks. Read what he has to say and see if you can see the wisdom in his words and the sense it makes.

Keith,
I have a large collection of knives long, short, fancy, machetes, parang, kukuri (the Nepalese one), however if i would be in a survival situation with only one knife as a tool, small or large, the last thing I would do is batoning. Not only because a wrong hit can break the blade but because a good survival knife (that can be sharpened in the field without modern contraptions) is bound to get some damages to the bevels (like folding or chipping), if it doesnt like many of the knives on the market, it will be almost impossible to sharpen in the field. With the proper technique you can cut a bit more than thumb size branch with a standard 4" blade bush craft knife, Scandi grind and no more than 4 mm blade thickness. Splitting logs with a knife, no way in a survival situation, there is plenty of wood that can be harvested with bare hand and if you really have a lot of energies to spend (not a good thing in a survival situation) a belt ax would be more appropriate. In my recent expedition in Africa I saw the bush primitives never use their blades for chopping wood, they are too precious to be risked in such a rough task, chopping wood is done with a very primitive, but effective, small or medium ax. With due respect for the Africans, we might know a bit more than they do, however for sure they know how to conserve the little they have. I like long blades, but I dont like heavy blades, a little chopping is fine, but I woudnt touch anything more than 1 1/2" in diameter, is not worth the risk and the amount of energies spent.
Vigo