o (a) Justaucorps and Vest
o
- "a new
suit [i.e. justaucorps] and a vest of Pinchina (1728, master suit
tailor) [71]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and vest of brown cloth one third used, with matching buttons (1742, clerk of the Superior Council ) [72]
- "a suit ii.e. j.l ustaucorps] and vest of cinnamon plush...15# (1744, ship captain) [73]
- "a suit (i.e. justaucorps] with vest of mouse gray cloth three quarters used. (1752) [74]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and vest of brown cloth one third used, with matching buttons (1742, clerk of the Superior Council ) [72]
- "a suit ii.e. j.l ustaucorps] and vest of cinnamon plush...15# (1744, ship captain) [73]
- "a suit (i.e. justaucorps] with vest of mouse gray cloth three quarters used. (1752) [74]
o (b) Justaucorps and Breeches
o
- "a suit
[i.e. justaucorps] and breeches of drap d'Elbeuf, half
used, maroon coloured ...25#...(1736) [75]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of black cloth, ` very worn (1740, engineer) [76]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of gray cloth lined with green taffeta ...10#...(1744, ship captain) [77]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of black cloth, ` very worn (1740, engineer) [76]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of gray cloth lined with green taffeta ...10#...(1744, ship captain) [77]
o (c) Justaucorps Alone
o
- "a suit
[i.e. justaucorps] of écarlate, three quarters used,
with copper buttons (1740, engineer) [78]
- "another suit [i.e. justaucorps] of gray cloth, two thirds used (1742, clerk of the Superior Council) [79]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of rough brown cloth, half used... #15 (1756) [80]
- "a brown suit [i.e. j,ustaucorps] with blue lining (1756) [81]
- "another suit [i.e. justaucorps] of gray cloth, two thirds used (1742, clerk of the Superior Council) [79]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of rough brown cloth, half used... #15 (1756) [80]
- "a brown suit [i.e. j,ustaucorps] with blue lining (1756) [81]
o 5. VEST
o Unlike the suit which only rich or distinguished men
wore regularly, vests and breeches were part of every wardrobe from the most
luxurious to the most humble. (In the latter case a wardrobe would be merely a
simple cupboard containing a few old clothes). Vest and breeches could make
an ensemble, particularly when made of the same material (See Table
No. 5 and No. 6) but most often, they were cited separately in lists of
clothing with nothing to suggest they were part of a single outfit.
o It is difficult to establish norms in judging average
daily wear. These garments were not made to measure by tailors and
unfortunately only the techniques of these artisans have been noted and
conserved. Some of these garments were probably made at home. Others, less
individual, were sold from large batches: sixty pairs of breeches and ten vests
o
o
TABLE N0. 5:
FABRICS AND COLOURS OF VESTS
|
PERIOD
|
COTTON
|
cotton
|
WOOL
|
wool
|
SILK
|
silk
|
OTHER
|
other
|
COLOUR
|
|
1713
to 1745 |
16 dimity
2 striped dimity |
x
x |
4 mazamet
2 pinching 1 camlet 1 frise 1 mite |
x
x + - - |
1 plush
1 velvet 1 watered silk 1 checked silk |
v
v - - |
3 drap
3 gros drap 1 Elbeuf cloth 5 étoffe 3 toile 1 toile rousse 2 skin (leather) 1 écarlate 1 grenat |
+
+ + - + + - - |
5 brown
3 black 2 margoon 2 gray 1 blue 1 white |
|
TOTAL
|
18
|
|
9
|
|
4
|
|
20
|
|
-
|
|
1748
to 1758 |
12 dimity
1 striped dimity 1 brocaded dimity 1 flowered dimity 2 striped cotton 1 flowered cotton 1 cotton 1 toile de coton 1 Siamese cotton |
x
x x x - - - + + |
9 ratine
3 camlet 2 drugget 2 plush 1 cut plush 1 serge 1 flowered serge 1 mazamet 1 Cadiz 1 barracan |
x
- x v v x x x x - |
1 silk drugget
1 silk 1 plush 3 velvet 2 cut velvet |
x or +
- v v v |
13 drap
5 fluted drap 1 gros drap 6 étoffe 1 grosse étoffe 4 "very strong diablement fort" 2 toile 2 écarlate 1 écarlatine |
+
+ + - - - + - - |
12 blue
10 red 7 brown 6 white 5 gray 4 black 1 cinnamon 1 maroon |
|
TOTAL
|
21
|
|
22
|
|
8
|
|
35
|
|
-
|
|
GRAND TOTAL
|
39
|
|
31
|
|
12
|
|
55
|
|
-
|
o
o
DOCUMENTATION:
o
1713-1745: 51
fabrics and 14 colours of vests are specified.
o
1748-1758: 86
fabrics and 46 colours of vests are specified. )
o
1713-1758: 137
fabrics and 60 colours of vests are specified.
o
ABBREVIATIONS:
o
+: fabric
without twill weave (perpendicular pattern)
o
x: twill woven
fabric (diagonal pattern)
o
v:
velvet-textured fabric
o
-: weaving
technique is unknown
o
o
TABLE NO. 6:
FABRICS AND COLOURS OF BREECHES
|
PERIOD
|
COTTON
|
cotton
|
WOOL
|
wool
|
SILK
|
silk
|
OTHER
|
other
|
COLOUR
|
|
1713
to 1745 |
4 dimity
3 striped cotton |
x
- |
5 mazamet
4 camlet 3 pinchina 3 frieze (ratine) |
x
+ x x |
6 plush
3 velvet 1 silk drugget 1 checked silk |
v
v + - |
13 toile
3 sailcloth 1 toile rousse 7 drap 2 gros drap 6 skin (leather) 1 mooseskin 3 moresque 3 écarlatine 2 étoffe 2 étoffe commune 2 short napped cloth 2 tick -1 "cordeillac" |
+
+ + + + - - - - + + - |
11 brown
4 black 4 red 3 blue 2 maroon 1 white 1 gray 1 beige |
|
TOTAL
|
7
|
|
15
|
|
11
|
|
48
|
|
-
|
|
1748
to 1758 |
4 striped cotton
2 cotton 4 striped Siamese 3 toile de coton |
-
- + + |
5 frieze (ratine)
2 beaver 1 camlet 1 calamance 1 brocaded wool 1 woollen velvet |
x
+ + - - v |
36 plush
11 velvet 1 brocaded velvet 1 silk drugget |
v
v v + |
35 sailcloth
3 toile 1 toile de mer 1 striped toile 23 drap 2 fluted drap 7 skin [leather] 5 mooseskin 4 tick 3 "very strong diablement fort" 3 beggars velvet 2 "Ginga" 2 short-napped cloth 2 étoffe 1 étoffe ciselé 1 etamine 1 grisette |
+
+ + + + + + - - - + - - - + |
18 red
16 blue 8 brown 6 gray 4 black 3 white 2 green 2 gray-white |
|
TOTAL
|
13
|
|
11
|
|
49
|
|
96
|
|
-
|
|
GRAND TOTAL
|
20
|
|
26
|
|
60
|
|
144
|
|
-
|
o
The Louisbourg Institute of / L' Institut de
Louisbourg de Cape Breton University ~ © 1995-present ~ Louisbourg.info@pc.gc.ca
A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
Report/Rapport © Parks Canada / Parcs Canada --- Report Assembly/Rapport de l'assemblée © Krause House Info-Research Solutions
A Research Site for the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada operated by the Louisbourg Institute ~
Un site de recherche du lieu historique national du Canada de la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg géré par l'Institut de Louisbourg
Report/Rapport © Parks Canada / Parcs Canada --- Report Assembly/Rapport de l'assemblée © Krause House Info-Research Solutions
o
CIVIL COSTUME AT LOUISBOURG: 1713 - 1758
MEN'S COSTUME
MEN'S COSTUME
o
BY
o
MONIQUE LA GRENADE
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