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Wednesday, 16 January 2013

French Clothing in the New World Part Six.


o    (a) Justaucorps and Vest
o    - "a new suit [i.e. justaucorps] and a vest of Pinchina (1728, master suit tailor) [71]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and vest of brown cloth one third used, with matching buttons (1742, clerk of the Superior Council ) [72]
- "a suit ii.e. j.l ustaucorps] and vest of cinnamon plush...15# (1744, ship captain) [73]
- "a suit (i.e. justaucorps] with vest of mouse gray cloth three quarters used. (1752) [74]
o    (b) Justaucorps and Breeches
o    - "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] and breeches of drap d'Elbeuf, half used, maroon coloured ...25#...(1736) [75]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of black cloth, ` very worn (1740, engineer) [76]
- "a suit [i.e. Justaucorps] and breeches of gray cloth lined with green taffeta ...10#...(1744, ship captain) [77]
o    (c) Justaucorps Alone
o    - "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of écarlate, three quarters used, with copper buttons (1740, engineer) [78]
- "another suit [i.e. justaucorps] of gray cloth, two thirds used (1742, clerk of the Superior Council) [79]
- "a suit [i.e. justaucorps] of rough brown cloth, half used... #15 (1756) [80]
- "a brown suit [i.e. j,ustaucorps] with blue lining (1756) [81]
o    5. VEST
o    Unlike the suit which only rich or distinguished men wore regularly, vests and breeches were part of every wardrobe from the most luxurious to the most humble. (In the latter case a wardrobe would be merely a simple cupboard containing a few old clothes). Vest and breeches could make an ensemble, particularly when made of the same material (See Table No. 5 and No. 6) but most often, they were cited separately in lists of clothing with nothing to suggest they were part of a single outfit.
o    It is difficult to establish norms in judging average daily wear. These garments were not made to measure by tailors and unfortunately only the techniques of these artisans have been noted and conserved. Some of these garments were probably made at home. Others, less individual, were sold from large batches: sixty pairs of breeches and ten vests
o   
o    TABLE N0. 5: FABRICS AND COLOURS OF VESTS
PERIOD
COTTON
cotton
WOOL
wool
SILK
silk
OTHER
other
COLOUR
1713
to
1745
16 dimity
2 striped dimity






 
x
x






 
4 mazamet
2 pinching
1 camlet
1 frise
1 mite



 
x
x
+
-
-



 
1 plush
1 velvet
1 watered silk
1 checked silk




 
v
v
-
-




 
3 drap
3 gros drap
1 Elbeuf cloth
5 étoffe
3 toile
1 toile rousse
2 skin (leather)
1 écarlate
1 grenat
+
+
+
-
+
+

-
-
5 brown
3 black
2 margoon
2 gray
1 blue
1 white


 
TOTAL
18

9

4

20

-
1748
to
1758
12 dimity
1 striped dimity
1 brocaded dimity
1 flowered dimity
2 striped cotton
1 flowered cotton
1 cotton
1 toile de coton
1 Siamese cotton
 
x
x
x
x
-
-
-
+
+
 
9 ratine
3 camlet
2 drugget
2 plush
1 cut plush
1 serge
1 flowered serge
1 mazamet
1 Cadiz
1 barracan
x
-
x
v
v
x
x
x
x
-
1 silk drugget
1 silk
1 plush
3 velvet
2 cut velvet




 
x or +
-
v
v
v




 
13 drap
5 fluted drap
1 gros drap
6 étoffe
1 grosse étoffe
4 "very strong diablement fort"
2 toile
2 écarlate
1 écarlatine
 
+
+
+
-
-
-
+
-
-
 
12 blue
10 red
7 brown
6 white
5 gray
4 black
1 cinnamon
1 maroon

 
TOTAL
21

22

8

35

-
GRAND TOTAL
39

31

12

55

-
o                  
o    DOCUMENTATION:
o    1713-1745: 51 fabrics and 14 colours of vests are specified.
o    1748-1758: 86 fabrics and 46 colours of vests are specified. )
o    1713-1758: 137 fabrics and 60 colours of vests are specified.
o    ABBREVIATIONS:
o    +: fabric without twill weave (perpendicular pattern)
o    x: twill woven fabric (diagonal pattern)
o    v: velvet-textured fabric
o    -: weaving technique is unknown
o   
o    TABLE NO. 6: FABRICS AND COLOURS OF BREECHES
PERIOD
COTTON
cotton
WOOL
wool
SILK
silk
OTHER
other
COLOUR
1713
to
1745
4 dimity
3 striped cotton











 
x
-











 
5 mazamet
4 camlet
3 pinchina
3 frieze (ratine)









 
x
+
x
x









 
6 plush
3 velvet
1 silk drugget
1 checked silk









 
v
v
+
-









 
13 toile
3 sailcloth
1 toile rousse
7 drap
2 gros drap
6 skin (leather)
1 mooseskin
3 moresque
3 écarlatine
2 étoffe
2 étoffe commune
2 short napped cloth
2 tick
-1 "cordeillac"
+
+
+
+
+


-
-
-
-
+
+
-
11 brown
4 black
4 red
3 blue
2 maroon
1 white
1 gray
1 beige





 
TOTAL
7

15

11

48

-
1748
to
1758
4 striped cotton
2 cotton
4 striped Siamese
3 toile de coton












 
-
-
+
+












 
5 frieze (ratine)
2 beaver
1 camlet
1 calamance
1 brocaded wool
1 woollen velvet










 
x
+
+
-
-
v










 
36 plush
11 velvet
1 brocaded velvet
1 silk drugget












 
v
v
v
+












 
35 sailcloth
3 toile
1 toile de mer
1 striped toile
23 drap
2 fluted drap
7 skin [leather]
5 mooseskin
4 tick
3 "very strong diablement fort"
3 beggars velvet
2 "Ginga"
2 short-napped cloth
2 étoffe
1 étoffe ciselé
1 etamine
1 grisette
+
+
+
+
+
+


+
-
-
-
+
-
-
-
+
18 red
16 blue
8 brown
6 gray
4 black
3 white
2 green
2 gray-white








 
TOTAL
13

11

49

96

-
GRAND TOTAL
20

26

60

144

-

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