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Tuesday 15 January 2013

French Clothing in the New World Part Four.


o    C. SUIT: COAT (JUSTAUCORPS), VEST, BREECHES
o    1. TERMINOLOGY
o    Typical masculine apparel in the 18th century consisted of "the complete suit, French or European, that is, coat (justaucorps), vest and breeches" . [59] This rather theoretical definition could be varied. Whether by taste or wealth, the redingotte replaced the justaucorps, and sometimes only breeches and a waistcoat (gilet) would be worn. Terminologies varied. The same garment might have different names applied to it, or the same term might cover more than one garment. We have judged it useful to avoid confusion by presenting a table of definitions, equivalents and examples. (See Table No. 3)
o    FABRICATION
o    In 1768, in Paris, M. de Garsault published L'Art du Tailleur, a work illustrating the, methods of 18th century tailors and the clothes they made. The book was used by Diderot for his descriptions of that trade in the Encyclopédie. [60] Later Norah Waugh produced a fairly good summary of the original text in contemporary language, making the work much more accessible. The text is accompanied by illustrations and concise technical explanations. In order to reproduce costumes, it is recommended that one consult Waugh's book as well as the explanations given here and in the Encyclopédie. [61]
o   

o    TABLE NO. 3: TERMINOLOGY OF MASCULINE COSTUME
o    LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
o    D: definition
o    E: equivalent
o    Lb: Louisbourg
BREECHES
D:
"The part of our clothing which covers the thighs". (Diderot, "Tailleur")
CAMISOLE
D:
1. "Sleeved casaque which from 1560 and in the 17th century was worn beneath the shirt and doublet." (Larousse XX siècle, "camisole")
2. "The camisole or gilet is worn next to the skin (flannel) or over the shirt (various materials). It is made like the waistcoat [i.e. vest] with or without sleeves. It is unlined but faced down the front and buttoned with very small buttons" (Waugh)
E:
Gilet
 
FROCK-COAT
D:
"The volant is also a coat but has no buttonholes or buttons on the sleeve, no pocket flaps ... it has a collar with button and buttonhole; it is usually worn over the coat". (Waugh)
E:
Overcoat (surtout) (Lb. see "surtout" E.4)
JUSTAUCORPS
D:
We have found no specific definition of this garment. However, all evidence confirms that it was the garment worn with breeches and over the vest. It would be the equivalent of today's jacket worn with slacks and a vest.
E:
1. Suit (see suit D.2, E.1)
2. Overcoat (Waugh)
OVERCOAT
D:
1. Tailoring term given to a Justaucorps worn over other clothing in winter (Diderot, "surtout").
2. Simple garment worn over all other garments (Larousse XX siècle, "surtout").
3. "The surtout is a country coat but now worn in town. The only difference is that the buttonholes stop at pocket level and there are only three buttonholes on the centre vack vent. Usually with a collar". (Waugh)
E:
1. Suit (see suit, E.2)
2. Justaucorps (Waugh) (see surtout D.1)
3. 
Redingotte (1b., see redingotte, E.1)
4. Frock-coat (Lb.)e.g. "A surtout or volant with vest and breeches" (Procès verbal de vente des effets de feu François Gassot. Louisbourg, 19 août 1752.  A.N., Section Outre-Mer, Série G2, Vol. 201, Dossier 251)
POLONAISE
D:
The term polonaise is used for a style popular at the time of the marriage of Louis XV to the daughter of the King of Poland. Vests of this style were typified by frogging, a type of braid or cord sewn on the front of the vest. It went across the front of the vest and formed a pattern about the buttonholes. (Lacroix) They were sometimes called "veste à la polonaise". (Procès verbal d'inventaire des biens de feu Pierre de Saint Malo. Louisbourg, 6 September 1752. A.N., Section Outre Mer, Série G2, Vol. 201, Dossier 253). More often, they were called simply "polonaise": "apolonaise and breeches of pinchinot [coarse woollen material)" (Procès verbal d'inventaire des biens de feu Bonaventure Lebrun. Louisbourg, 18 July 1740. A.N., Section Outre-Mer, Série G2., Vol. 197, Dossier 144).
E:
Vest (Lb.)
REDINGOTTE
D:
"The Redingotte is a recent fashion imported from England and is, like its English name, a riding coat. It is a cloak with sleeves, and buttons to the waist. It has a collar like the Surtout and the back of the neck is arranged in pleats which are hidden by a cape collar (rotonne). The sleeves have boot cuffs with three buttons and buttonholes and are lined with linen. The fronts are lined to the waist with the same material. There are sometimes pockets on the side seams. The centre back vent is only half as high as that of the coat". (Waugh)
E:
Overcoat (Lb.)
ex.: "un surtout ou redingotte". (Procès verbal d'inventaire des biens de feu Philibert Génier. Louisbourg, 13 février 1742. A.N., Section-Outre-Mer, Série G2, Vol. 198, Dossier 158).

SUIT
D:
1. "The complete habit French or European is a justaucorps,, vest and ... breeches". (Diderot, "Tailleur") e.g.: "Please send me the materials for a suit: justaucorps, vest and two pairs of breeches". (Mme Vve Péré A Villebreux Perrée. Louisbourg, 22 October 1733. A.N., Section Outre-Mer, Série G2, Vol. 195, Dossier 83).
2. "In the 18th century the word habit replaced justaucorps (Larousse XX siècle, "justaucorps") e.g.: "asked whether he had a vest or a suit. answered that he had his suit and his vest." ("Procès-verbal d'interrogatoire de Lamerlière." Louisbourg, 2 February 1751. A.N., Section Outre-Mer, Série G2, Vol. 210, Dossier 516, Picce 15).
E:
1. Justaucorps (Larousse XX siecle. see habit D.2) (Lb. see habit D.2)
2. Overcoat (Lb.) e.g.: "a suit or overcoat" (Inventaire des meubles de la Succession de feu Sr. DeCouage ingenieur. Louisbourg, 4 February 1740. A.N., Section Outre-Mer, Série G2, Vol. 197, Dossier 129).

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