A LIVING HISTORY BLOG.

18TH CENTURY LIVING HISTORY IN AUSTRALIA.

Wednesday 26 January 2011

The Light In The Forest.

I read a book by the same name years ago, but I am not sure if this movie is based on that book. An old one, so one can not expect authenticity in the clothing and equipment.


The Bounty (1984)

Gunpowder Bags.

A hundred miles upstream from Jamestown, on an exploring journey by canoe, Smith was badly burned and injured by the explosion of a gunpowder bag. 17th century.
http://www.teachersyndicate.com/documents/oct_2010/TTC%20Guidebooks/American%20Identity.pdf


Supplies for 24 Abenakis and Iroquois who have joined our party:
24 pounds of gunpowder in one bag of half an ell
Supplies for the six militia men:
6 pounds of gunpowder in bags of one eighth of an ell
1756-1760 journal of Louis Antoine de Bougainville
France, Archives de Colonies series C11A, volume 117, folios 191v to 194, National Archives of Canada, microfilm f-118.


8 Leather lodges
20 Powder bags
3 setts Wampum moons
15 nests sheet iron kettles
Invoice of Sundry Merchandise from the Rocky Mountain Outfit 1836
under charge of Fontenelle, Fitzpatrick, & Co.


15           Leather Powder Bags

Invoice of Sundry Merchandise furnished Rocky Mountain Outfit 1837 under charge of Fontenelle, Fitzpatrick & Co.


“…fungus that grows on the outside of the birch-tree…used by all the Indians in those parts for tinder…called by the Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is known all over the country bordering on Hudson’s Bay by the name of Pesogan…there is another kind…that I think is infinitely preferable to either. This is found in old decayed poplars, and lies in flakes…is always moist when taken from the tree but when dry…takes fire readily from the spark of a steel: but it is much improved by being kept dry in a bag that has contained gunpowder.”



~Samuel Hearne, Northern Canada, 1772

Monday 24 January 2011

Settler's Cabins.

One of the most common homes built by settlers in America and Australia was the wattle and daub cabin or hut. This type was common back in the old country, so it was a natural method to use in a new country. All the ones shown here are in Australia.




This one made of upright timbers between main corner posts.

This one is the same as above. Built in a forest in Tasmania. I camped in a similar cabin in the Snowy Mountains in winter for about a month.

Native Shelters In The Two New Worlds.

The shelters that look better made I think must be more permanent shelters, where as the rough looking ones are probably hunting shelters. With so little information available it is difficult to say.

An Australian Mia, a woodland shelter.

An Iroquois woodland shelter.


Aust. woodland shelter.

Aust. Rainforest shelter.

Plymouth woodlan shelter.

A hunter's shelter in an American forest.

Wigwam.

Aust. forest shelter.

Aust. rainforest shelter.

Cloggs cave in the Australian Alps, Snowy Mountains.
Australian Aboriginal people are still using these types of shelters today in some areas. I lived in an Aboriginal reserve in Arnham Land for two months in 1973, and the whole reserve was made up of these shelters.

Wednesday 19 January 2011

Jean- Baptiste- Simeon Chardin

Year Of The Forest 2011. A different post, but connected.

This may seem like a strange post on this sort of blog, but as many of you will know by now I am very much into primitive skills, survival and living off the grid. That is what it was all about in the 18th century.
I live in a forest, and I grow our own food. We lived for at least 25 years without any electricity, and now we supply our own but are still off the grid. This being the YEAR OF THE FOREST, I thought it very apt to make a post like this and give my followers something to think about beyond our day to day living skills. The link below is to a BBC video which I enjoyed very much and think it is well worth watching. I will also post the same video from YouTube.


http://www.survival-spot.com/survival-blog/natural-world-a-farm-for-the-future/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+survivalspotblog+%28Survival+Spot+Blog%29&utm_content=Google+Reader













Our forest home.

Affordability. Equipment & Tools. Knives.

Knives.
There are fixed blade belt knives, and there are jack knives/clasp knives. These come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Second hand will usually be less costly than new, and these second hand knives are well worth looking out for at your local second hand dealer.

A repro clasp knife.
 Clasp knives are generally not that costly even new from living history traders. If you are on a budget, stay away from custom made knives. If you are going to purchase a new or custom knife, make sure you do your research first as to style.

A repro clasp knife.
Second hand butcher knives of the 18th century style are still available at dealers and markets. Stay away from stainless steel, only purchase carbon steel. Carbon steel is usually recognisable by it being a duller finish than the usually shiny look of stainless.

Two original butcher knives. One I found at a second hand dealer's, and the other I found at a local maket.
Handles on 18th century knives were pinned, not riveted, but handles can be replaced where they have been riveted.

This too is an original blade, and I bought it without a handle.
This one I found second hand as is. I made the sheath. This is now my legging knife.
This was my Fathers craft knife, and that is what I use it for now. The blade shape could be changed on a knife like this.


An original Gully knife.
A Gully knife custom made for me by my close friend the late Geoff W. Howarth of Tamworth NSW Australia. 9 inches long closed.



Above: Pinned. A metal rod or nail is used and peened at both ends to secure it.

Above: These are brass rivets. Most if not all modern butcher knife handles are secured by rivets. As you can see they are much larger than the pins.

Tuesday 18 January 2011

Affordability. Equipment & Tools. The Gun.

As you have seen from my previous post, new guns are not cheap. In the 18th century you could probably pick up an old matchlock or wheelock for very little and a flintlock trade gun for maybe 4-5 English pounds. These days a cheaper alternative would be a gun that comes in kit form that you put together yourself. Another alternative would be a second hand gun, especially a mass produced product in percussion. A close friend of mine bought a percussion second hand not too long ago, and as luck would have it it was a CVA, and I had a new flint lock to fit his rifle. The locks are interchangable. A lot of people purchase muzzle-loading guns thinking it will be a lot of fun, and it is. But they don't take the time to learn how to use them properly and how to look after them so they end up getting rid of them at a loss. Always worth checking out your local gun shop.

A CVA rifle in kit form.
Another alternative is a bow. I have no documentation of non Indians using a bow, but in our group bows are allowed.
If you can't afford to purchase a gun or bow, then you can try making a survival bow, or you can simply carry on gathering the other tools that you want and wait for a bargain to come along. You do not need a gun or bow to get involved in 18th century living history or historical trekking, though in some parts of the world carrying a gun for protection is advisable.

NEW Gun Prices From Forbes.

These prices are a little expensive for some of us, but we will explore some alternatives later. Meanwhile, if you fancy anything on this list. please contact Graeme direct.


Keith,

We have no second hand muzzle loaders available.
I have e-mailed the Pedersoli price list from MYOB program, not all are in stock but anything can be ordered.
We don’t sell throwing hawks as they are considered as a prohibited weapon in Victoria.
Best Regards,


Graeme Forbes
Forbes Wholesale P/L
Black Powder & Target Shooting Specialists
RWS Ammunition & Titan Rifles
http://www.forbesws.com.au/

Forbes Wholesale P/L

Price List [Summary]
19/01/20
11:45:24 AM
Page 2
Item # Item Name Current Price
S210-45 KENTUCKY FLINTLOCK RIFL $900.00
S210-50 KENTUCKY .50 FLINTLOCK $900.00
S213-45 KENTUCKY PERCUSSION RI $740.00
S213-50 PEDERSOLI KENTUCKY PER $775.00
S214-45 ALAMO FLINTLOCK RIFLE $850.00
S214-50 ALAMO FLINT RIFLE $930.00
S217-45 ALAMO PERCUSSION RIFLE $945.00
S217-50 ALAMO PERCUSSION RIFLE $945.00
S219-50 TRYON STANDARD RIFLE $1,250.00
S219-54 TRYON STANDARD RIFLE .5 $1,100.00
S222 PENNSYLVANNIA SCOUT FL $800.00
S223-45 SCOUT PERCUSSION RIFLE $750.00
S223-50 PENNSYLVANIA SCOUT PER $780.00
S224-54 TRYON MAPLE STOCK RIFL $1,675.00
S225-40 GIBBS LONG RANGE RIFLE $2,500.00
S225-45 GIBBS LONG RANGE RIFLE $2,000.00
S226-36 CUB DIXIE .36 PERCUSSION $1,350.00
S227 CUB DIXIE FLINTLOCK CAR $975.00
S230-12 GIBBS 12# SHOTGUN $2,280.00
S232 JAEGER .54 FLINTLOCK RIF $1,800.00
S237 COUNTRY HUNTER PERC .5 $525.00
S238 MORTIMER 12 GAUGE S/GU $1,450.00
S238-012 MORTIMER FLINTLOCK SHO $1,620.00
S239 MORTIMER TARGET'MAXIMI $1,675.00
S240-54 MORTIMER FLINT RIFLE 54 c $1,500.00
S243 SPRINGFIELD .58 CAL RIFLE $2,325.00
S244-012 MORTIMER SHOTGUN #12 g $1,450.00
S245580 .58 KODIAK D/B (Pistol Grip) $1,495.00
S251-45 TRYON .45 MATCH RIFLE $1,550.00
S255 1763 LEGER (1766) CHARLE $2,500.00
S256 1777 REVOLUTIONAIRE MU $1,550.00
S258 1777 CORRIGE 'An IX' MUSK $1,550.00
S260-75 BROWN BESS MUSKET $1,600.00
S261 1809 PRUSSIAN MUSKET $1,550.00
S262 BROWN BESS CARBINE $1,660.00
S263 1798 AUSTRIAN INFANTRY $1,550.00
S264-54 FRONTIER FLINTLOCK CAR $950.00
S265-45 FRONTIER CARBINE (Percus $890.00
S266-45 FRONTIER FLINTLOCK WAL $910.00
S266-50 FRONTIER FLINTLOCK WAL $950.00
S267-45 FRONTIER .45 PERC RIFLE $970.00
S267-50 FRONTIER PERC. RIFLE WA $970.00
S268-50 FRONTIER FLINTLOCK MAP $1,500.00
S270-45 PENNSYLVANNIA .45 Perc RI $900.00
S271-45 PENNSYLVANNIA DIXIE PER $985.00
S273 1816 HARPERS FERRY PER $1,550.00
S274-69 1816 HARPERS FERRY F/L $1,690.00
S275-32 PENNSYLVANIA FLINTLOCK $1,065.00
S275-45 PENNSYLANNIA FLINTLOCK $1,065.00
S276-45 PENNSYLVANNIA DIXIE FLIN $1,475.00
S279-320 CHAMBERSBURG PENNSYL $1,100.00
S279-450 CHAMBERSBURG PENNSYL $1,100.00
S282 INDIAN TRADE MUSKET 20# $1,295.00
S283-540 ROCKY MOUNTAIN HAWKE $1,315.00
S290-547 WUERTTEMBERGISCHES 18 $1,850.00
S292-69 "AN IX" DRAGOON MUSKET $1,690.00
S295-540 ROCKY MOUNTAIN HAWKE $1,650.00
S298-69 1795 SPRINGFIELD MUSKET $2,500.00
S300-40 KUCHENREUTER PISTOL .4 $1,690.00
S301-440 MORTIMER MATCH PERCUS $1,350.00
S302-044 RIFLED MORTIMER RIFLED FLINT PI $1,350.00
S305-36 CHARLES MOORE PERC. PI $900.00
S305-45 CHARLES MOORE PERC. PI $790.00
S306-44 CHARLES MOORE SMOOTH $990.00
Forbes Wholesale P/L
Price List [Summary]
19/01/20
11:45:24 AM
Page 3
Item # Item Name Current Price
S310-45 KENTUCKY .45 FLINTLOCK $480.00
S310-50 KENTUCKY FLINTLOCK PIST $470.00
S311-50 KENTUCKY PERC. PISTOL M $750.00
S312 KENTUCKY PISTOL (MAPLE $550.00
S313-45 KENTUCKY PERC PISTOL $560.00
S313-50 KENTUCKY .50 PERC PISTO $440.00
S313-54 PED KENTUCKY .54 PERC PI $495.00
S317-45 KENTUCKY BOUNTY FLINT
forbes@forbesws.com.au






Affordability. Equipment & Tools. The Tomahawk/Axe.

I think the cost of tools and equipment are a serious consideration for many people wanting to get into 18th century living history. If you have the money, it is no problem, there are traders that cater to the living historian. Even so many people regardless of wealth prefere to make as much as they can of their own gear and family gear. Having said that though, purchasing ready made knapsacks, haversacks, snapsacks, rucksacks and market wallets here in Australia is not going to be easy.
I emailed Graeme Forbes today to see if he can supply me with some prices on guns, meanwhile though I will cover what tools I can. Tomahawks I believe can be purchased from Green River Rifle Works in S.A., guns also, but last I looked they could not be contacted via the net.
For those of you who have to make your own, or use second hand goods, this is what I have done in the past.

Tomahawk/Belt Axe.
The images below are of an ordinary second hand hatchet head purchased at a second hand store for about $4.00, which I turned into a period axe.
1) I buried the blade of the axe in the ground and lit a fire on top of it. This heated the eye area but not the blade and edge. I got it red hot, then removed it with pliers and hammered it upside down over the spike of a pickaxe which I had also driven into the ground. Don't worry about the hammer damage, it gets cut off later. This process will give you an oval to round tapered eye in the head.
2) If you are going to use a hacksaw to shape the head, then you need to heat the whole of the head to cherry red and let it cool slowly. In which case just heat it in the fire when shaping the head and don't worry about burying the blade in the ground. I have done it both ways.
I used an angle grinder to cut out the shape. I placed the head on the ground and placed a metal bar through the eye so I could stand on the bar and hold the head in place. As I cut, I occasionally picked up the head with the bar and quenched it in water to stop the edge of the blade losing its hardness.
If you soften the head to use a hacksaw, you will have to heat the cutting edge to cherry red and quench in water to re-harden after shaping and filing.
A standard shaped modern hatchet head.

Note the damage done with the hammer when driving the head down over the pick axe head spike. This though is on the part which gets removed.


Note the eye is tapered now and oval.

The finished product after making and fitting a new helve.


Video: Making A Tomahawk Helve.